Nikky Phinyawatana grew up between two cities and two ways of thinking about food. Bangkok, where she spent her early years, treated Thai cooking as something worth taking seriously — fresh ingredients, careful preparation, proper seasoning, the kind of attention you gave a thing you respected. Dallas, where she attended The Hockaday School as a boarding student and later made her permanent home, had plenty of Thai restaurants but not quite that. The food was there. The spirit of it was somewhere else.
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by Steven Doyle
