Down in the lower levels of the W.T. Waggoner Building, the 20-story tower that has stood at 810 Houston St. in downtown Fort Worth since 1920, there is an old bank vault. When Musume moved in, the owners lined it with tatami and made it a private dining room. When the restaurant reopens in early November, that vault will still be there, intact, after nearly three years in which very little else down there was.
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by Joey Stewart
This is one of those meals that’s really more of an experience than just dinner. It follows a traditional Japanese kaiseki flow, so everything comes out in a thoughtful progression—starting light, building into a few more composed and cooked courses, then easing into a simple rice finish and a clean, not-too-sweet dessert.
Nothing is over-explained on the menu, which is kind of the point—you’re trusting the chef and just going along for the ride. The pacing, the presentation, the way each course leads into the next—it all feels very intentional without being fussy. Sitting at the counter watching it happen right in front of you just adds to it. It’s quiet, focused, and really well done.
Continue readingFiled under Steven Doyle
Sake is best understood through style rather than brand. The defining factor is the rice-polishing ratio, which determines how much of the grain remains before brewing. As polishing increases, weight and umami give way to fragrance, precision, and elegance. Production choices—fermentation temperature, yeast selection, and whether distilled alcohol is added—further refine the final expression.
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by Joey Stewart
This fall, Kyo Sushi & Omakase is putting a fresh spin on Thanksgiving with something truly unexpected — a 15-course omakase that nods to the flavors of the season. Available October 21 through November 20, the special menu is priced at $75 and served during lunch (12–3 PM) and dinner (5:30–8:30 PM).
Chef Han’s vision takes the familiar warmth of Thanksgiving and filters it through the refined artistry of Japanese cuisine. Each course tells its own story — elegant, balanced, and full of quiet surprise. Expect rich touches like caviar, saffron, foie gras, and truffle, all woven together with the grace and precision of omakase dining.
Continue readingFiled under Crave, Joey Stewart
Step into the glow of the full moon at Kessaku, the sky-high sushi and cocktail lounge on the 50th floor of The National, for an extraordinary Moon Festival & Mijenta Tequila Dinner on Sunday, October 6 at 7:30 p.m.. This one-night event welcomes special guest Juan Coronado, co-founder of Mijenta, for an evening that unites Kessaku’s culinary artistry with Mijenta’s award-winning tequilas in a celebration of flavor, symbolism, and renewal.
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Hai Hospitality, the restaurant group behind Uchi, Uchiko, Uchibā, and Loro, is introducing its first house sake this fall in collaboration with Brooklyn Kura, New York’s pioneering sake brewery. The new release, Better Together, is a Junmai Ginjo set to debut October 1 at Uchi, Uchiko, and Uchibā locations in Texas before rolling out to the group’s restaurants in California, Pennsylvania, Florida, Colorado, and Arizona later this year. It will also be available at Brooklyn Kura’s taproom in Brooklyn.
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Soju, sake, and shochu are often mistaken for one another, especially on Western drink menus or in casual conversation, but each represents a unique expression of its country’s culture, method of production, and culinary philosophy. While they may share some visual similarities—clear or pale in color, served in small glasses, often accompanying meals—their differences run deep. From the ingredients used to the way they’re fermented or distilled, each beverage tells its own story.
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photos and text by Joey Stewart
Kome, a new sushi and handroll bar has opened in the space previously occupied by Sushi De Handroll at The Hill in Dallas. Kome is located at 8041 Walnut Hill Ln St 820 in Dallas.
The owner is Roy Ahn, who opened several Japanese spots over the years in the DFW area, such as Sushi Zen in Southlake and Zena Sushi in Coppell. During a two-year hiatus, he dove into construction and even donuts, but now he is back in action with the help of his close friend Sean Kim.
Let’s take a look at some dishes we sampled recently.
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